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Murgab market

Murgab market first appeared bleak and deserted. Then the shops, built from refurbished shipping containers, opened. Out spilled bright colored… clothes, Chinese plastic, and fruits from Osh, Kyrgyzstan.

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Karakul town

Where is everybody? An eerie silence pervaded the place as we wandered Karakul’s dusty streets. The town used to be… an important military base. Nowadays the local youth have left to find work in Osh, Kyrgyzstan.

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Bus station

We were mobbed at the bus station in Bukkittingi, Indonesia. Everybody wanted to help us buy tickets to Medan. Yet nobody knew when… where or even if a bus would be leaving in that direction.

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Harangaol market

Every Friday villagers from around the lake sail to Haranggaol for the weekly market. After a day of shopping, they… return with food, beer, and the latest news. As for us, we were able to catch a lift to Samosir Island.

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Chess in Sumatra

The ‘Kasparov’ chess computer was to be ‘put to the test’. Chess masters were summoned to the local café for… the match. The final result; ‘Kasparov’ was defeated in just under 2 minutes.

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Trans America trail

Looking out over the Pacific Ocean we began to realize what we had gotten ourselves into; a 3 month bicycle… trip between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. What would we come across? How steep were the mountain passes? What about the heat in Kansas? Would everybody be able to get along? We then turned east towards Virginia as America slowly unfolded itself before us.

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Moki Dugway

The Colorado Plateau stretched out in every direction, flat and featureless. We wondered when it would ever end.

Then, a sign appeared: “10% grade, switchbacks, narrow gravel road.” We had arrived at Moki Dugway, where over 1,000 feet below, the paved road snaked onwards.

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Ophir Pass

“Ophir Pass? It’s spectacular! You guys should have no problem cycling up it,” said the tourist information lady reassuringly. Perhaps… she had been altitude training – or lying – because we suffered. We weren’t acclimatized and by midday, we were still struggling to reach the summit. She was right about the scenery though. We ended up pitching our tent near the top with a panoramic view of the San Juan Mountains.

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White Rim trail

After heading down the switchbacks of Mineral Canyon, we spotted the entrance sign to Canyonlands National Park. “Entrance to another… planet is more like it,” remarked Paul as we struggled to pedal (and push!) our bicycles through the sand. Dwarfed by this landscape of immense rock, we realized why the White Rim Trail has become a classic mountain bike route.

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