“Ophir Pass? It’s spectacular! You guys shouldn’t have a problem cycling up it,” said the tourist information lady reassuringly.

Perhaps she had been altitude training – or lying – because we suffered. We weren’t acclimatized and by midday, we were still struggling to reach the summit.

She was right about the scenery though. We ended up pitching our tent near the top with a panoramic view of the San Juan Mountains.

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