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Swayambhunath

In 1982 I saw a photo of Swayambhunath. The temple was so exotic and different from everything that I knew… in Seattle. I resolved to one day go see it. Years later Paul and I arrived there at dawn while Nepalese pilgrims circled the stupa. It was better than I expected.

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Pedaling the Terai

Nepal isn’t just soaring mountains. The Mahendra highway runs through the Terai, a strip of flat land between the Indian… border and the Himalayan foothills. It had a serene simple beauty, so unlike the frantic chaos of neighboring India.

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Khusum hotel

Pfff… We hadn’t slept a wink. Throughout the night, truck and bus drivers stopped at our hotel for a meal. When they left, they couldn’t resist revving their engines and blasting their horns.

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River crossing

The spectators were lined up and the jury was out; could the next ‘contestants’ (Western cyclists) successfully reach the other… side? They had seen the earlier ‘challenger’ flounder. He stranded midway; with his truck wheels sinking into the river mud. The kids watched eagle-eyed as we began the crossing. We made it! We were happy, but I’m not sure if they were…

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Camping in schools

Cycling during the rainy season with a leaky tent meant that as soon as dusk approached, we were on the… lookout for a dry place to sleep. We often camped in schools. The headmasters always gave a warm welcome and a tour of the classrooms.

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Lake Tanganyika

As the Liemba slowed down we could see the passenger boats racing to dock alongside. It was a competition between… them since they were only paid by the number of passengers and amount of freight they carried back to shore. The scenes were reminiscent of the chariot race from Ben Hur.

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