Cycling – Sumatra
The scenery alongside the Trans-Sumatra highway gave us a new definition of the word ‘green’. Green is overwhelming, multi-hued and… Tropical. So it’s also dreaming of a cool shower at the end of a long, hot day.
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Trans America trail
Looking out over the Pacific Ocean we began to realize what we had gotten ourselves into; a 3 month bicycle… trip between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. What would we come across? How steep were the mountain passes? What about the heat in Kansas? Would everybody be able to get along? We then turned east towards Virginia as America slowly unfolded itself before us.
Moki Dugway
The Colorado Plateau stretched out in every direction, flat and featureless. We wondered when it would ever end.
Then, a sign appeared: “10% grade, switchbacks, narrow gravel road.” We had arrived at Moki Dugway, where over 1,000 feet below, the paved road snaked onwards.
Dodge tow-truck
An advantage of cycling over driving is that you can’t have engine problems. So you’ll never have to call a… tow-truck.
Ophir Pass
“Ophir Pass? It’s spectacular! You guys should have no problem cycling up it,” said the tourist information lady reassuringly. Perhaps… she had been altitude training – or lying – because we suffered. We weren’t acclimatized and by midday, we were still struggling to reach the summit. She was right about the scenery though. We ended up pitching our tent near the top with a panoramic view of the San Juan Mountains.
White Rim trail
After heading down the switchbacks of Mineral Canyon, we spotted the entrance sign to Canyonlands National Park. “Entrance to another… planet is more like it,” remarked Paul as we struggled to pedal (and push!) our bicycles through the sand. Dwarfed by this landscape of immense rock, we realized why the White Rim Trail has become a classic mountain bike route.
Gateway cafe
Gateway’s supermarket-café specializes in greasy hamburgers with extra ketchup. But after a week of granola bars, they were heaven! Sadly… the store’s shelves were empty. So the next morning we set off with hotdogs from the restaurant as we headed up towards the La Sal Mountains.
Snowed in
“I don’t suppose you guys have snow tires for those bikes?” asked a hunter. We just laughed.
That night a… storm hit and the next morning, we woke up to a ‘winter wonderland.’ We tried to pack the tent away but even without stakes, it stood frozen in place. So we crawled back into our sleeping bags for a day of card games and listening to country music.
Ganesh
In India, shrines are everywhere. We came across elephants who bestow blessings, Hanuman statues carved in rock faces, termite mounds… draped in gold cloth and even Ganesh’s face painted on tree trunks.
Shekhawati
Traveling through the painted towns, we gaped at the opulent murals. Nowadays many houses are abandoned, with only caretakers to… look after them.
Truck stop
At a truck stop, a Sikh chauffeur showed us where we were on the map while the mechanics wanted to… know what was in our water bottles. (Whiskey? diesel?) The place was a world in itself since the mechanics lived behind their workshops.
Amber palace
Suddenly we caught sight of Amber fort, nestled between the Aravalli hills.That first glimpse left us speechless and we
Intersection
Distracted by the movie billboards, Grace collided with a rickshaw. Thankfully nothing was damaged and they were both able to… pedal on.
Bodhnath
A magical evening around the Bodhnath stupa. During full moon, Tibetan families came there to light candles in honor of… the Buddha.
Dasain
During the Dasain festival, rental bike owners make offerings to Durga. To help ensure a safe year on the road.