The MV Ilala sails the length of Lake Malawi and we caught a ride on it to Chilumba.
Due to a hefty price increase, backpackers were avoiding the boat and we had the upper deck to ourselves.
We felt like ‘royalty’ instead of ‘dirtbag’ cyclists as we strolled across the teak deck and watched the lifeboats bringing passengers to and from shore.
Cycling during the rainy season with a leaky tent meant that as soon as dusk approached, we were on the lookout for a dry place to sleep.
We often camped in schools.
The headmasters always gave a warm welcome and a tour of the classrooms.
More school impressions:
As the Liemba slowed down we could see the passenger boats racing to dock alongside.
It was a competition between them since they were only paid by the number of passengers and amount of freight they carried back to shore.
The scenes were reminiscent of the chariot race from Ben Hur.
Another Lake Tanganyika impression: